BuzzFeed’s American journalist Jennifer McPhee, who recently moved to Italy and lives near La Spezia, has described her own experience of a one-day trip to Cinque Terre — five picturesque coastal villages on the Ligurian coast. She proved that with proper planning it is in fact possible to see all five villages in a single day.
Cinque Terre consists of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The author recommends staying not in the villages themselves, where accommodation is limited and expensive, but in the nearby towns of La Spezia or Levanto. From there it is easy to get around by train using the Cinque Terre Card day pass, which covers all five villages as well as Levanto and La Spezia, and gives access to public toilets, Wi‑Fi, hiking trails and the shuttle bus to Corniglia.
The couple began their journey at 8:30 in the morning from La Spezia, heading straight to the furthest village — Monterosso al Mare. This is the largest village in Cinque Terre, with a wide beach where you can rent a parasol or relax in the free section. It is known for its giant bucket cocktails, but the travellers limited themselves to breakfast in a local café and a stroll along the seafront, as they were planning to return separately for a full beach day.
They then set off on foot to Vernazza. One of the official trails between the villages took about an hour and a half, with the first 15 minutes being steep steps. The author advises bringing water, sun cream and comfortable footwear; there is a small café along the path where you can top up your drinks. As you walk, panoramic views of the coastline and villages open up from above.
In Vernazza the travellers relaxed on the beach, swam in the sea and wandered the narrow streets. They climbed up to Doria Castle, which offers views over the village and the sea; admission costs €2.50. According to the author, this is where she found some of the most interesting shops, so she devoted part of her time to shopping, after which the couple caught a train to their next stop — Corniglia.
Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre village that is not located directly by the sea. From the station to the centre there are 308 steps, but you can take the shuttle bus, which is included in the day pass. The village is quieter and more peaceful than the others, with views over the coastline. The author particularly highlights the Gelateria Alberto ice-cream parlour, where she tried its signature basil and olive oil ice cream, which she called the best she had tasted in Italy. After a short walk and visits to several churches, the journey continued on to Manarola.
In Manarola the travellers once again headed for the sea. The village is known for its cliff-jumping spots, so they watched holidaymakers leaping into the clear water, although this time they did not risk leaving their belongings unattended. Here they tried a popular local fast food — a cone of seafood (fried calamari in a paper cone with a wedge of lemon) — and walked along the coastal path, which offers one of the most famous views of Manarola. After a photo stop, the couple took the train to the last village — Riomaggiore.
Riomaggiore is often featured on postcards as the “face” of Cinque Terre: colourful houses cascade down to the harbour, creating a distinctive view. After almost 12 hours on the go, the travellers focused on relaxing, having dinner and drinks. This is also where the recently reopened Via dell’Amore (“Path of Love”) trail is located, with an entrance fee of €10. The author notes that for local residents, once they have obtained residency, access after 17:00 will be free, so they plan to return here for a sunset walk. They rounded off the day with pizza and Aperol Spritz, then took an eight-minute train ride back to La Spezia.
Summing up her experience, Jennifer McPhee shares a few practical tips for those who want to fit all five villages into one day:
- stay in La Spezia or Levanto to save on accommodation and have convenient access to the trains;
- start your route from the furthest village — Monterosso al Mare or Riomaggiore — and move along in sequence;
- if you plan to hike, choose one of the four main trails between the villages and build your schedule around it;
- bring separate clothing for hiking, the beach, strolling and dinner, as well as comfortable shoes for the trails and flip-flops or sandals for the beach;
- make sure you buy the Cinque Terre Card day pass, which covers trains, trails and some services;
- do not take valuables with you if you plan to swim, as you will have to leave your bags near the shore and keep an eye on them.
According to the author, the day was busy and physically tiring, but the impressions of Cinque Terre made this trip one of the most memorable of her time in Italy.